The Plan
It started the way most good rides do — a random mid-week message in the group chat:
“Coorg this weekend?”
Three replies. Zero hesitation. That’s all it took.
The plan was simple: leave Calicut early Saturday morning, ride through the Western Ghats into Kodagu (Coorg), spend the night, explore on Sunday, and ride back by evening. Total distance — roughly 500 km round trip. The weapon of choice — my Royal Enfield Himalayan 450.
Day 1: Calicut → Coorg (~250 km)
5:30 AM — The Cold Start
There’s something about starting a ride in the dark. The Himalayan fired up with its signature thump, breath fogging in the pre-dawn chill. We rolled out of Calicut with just the headlights cutting through the mist.
The Ghat Roads
The stretch through Thamarassery Ghat is where things got interesting. Nine hairpin bends, each tighter than the last, with the valley dropping away into a sea of green. The Himalayan’s suspension just soaked everything up — potholes, gravel patches, the odd fallen branch from last night’s rain.
Pro tip: If you’re riding through the ghats during monsoon or post-monsoon, keep your speed in check. The roads look dry but the corners are treacherous.
The First Chai Stop
About 120 km in, we pulled over at a roadside tea stall somewhere near Gonikoppal. Four cups of filter coffee (we were in Karnataka now, after all), some benne biscuits, and legs stretched out — that’s all you need to feel alive.
Reaching Madikeri
We rolled into Madikeri around noon. The town sits at about 1,500 meters and the temperature drop from the plains is immediate. Checked into a homestay nestled between coffee plantations — the kind of place where the WiFi password is written on a chalkboard and the owner’s dog greets you at the gate.
Day 2: Exploring Coorg
Raja’s Seat — Sunrise
Woke up at 5 AM (voluntarily, on a Sunday — that’s what travel does to you). Rode up to Raja’s Seat, the famous viewpoint where Kodagu kings once sat to watch the sunset. We caught the sunrise instead.
The view is hard to describe. Layers of green hills fading into the mist, the sun peeking through clouds in bands of gold and orange. We stood there for a good 30 minutes, mostly in silence.
Abbey Falls
Next stop — Abbey Falls. A short 10 km ride from Madikeri through a narrow road flanked by coffee and spice plantations. The waterfall is about 70 feet, and after the recent rains, it was absolutely roaring.
The mist from the falls hits you from 50 meters away. Phones went into pockets, and we just stood there getting soaked. Some experiences are better un-Instagrammed.
Dubare Elephant Camp
The afternoon was spent at Dubare Elephant Camp on the banks of the Cauvery. You can actually help bathe the elephants here — which is equal parts wholesome and terrifying when a 4-ton elephant decides to splash you.
The Ride Back
The return leg was bittersweet. We took the Mysore road back, which is wider and faster but less scenic. The Himalayan cruised comfortably at 90-100 kmph, and the new 450cc engine barely felt strained. Got back to Calicut by 9 PM, tired but grinning.
Himalayan 450 — Trip Notes
After 500 km of ghats, broken roads, and highway, here’s what I think of the bike:
| Aspect | Verdict |
|---|---|
| Engine | The 450cc Sherpa engine is smooth. No vibrations at highway speeds. |
| Suspension | Showa USD forks eat bad roads for breakfast. |
| Seat comfort | Good for 200 km stretches, needs a break after that. |
| Fuel efficiency | ~30 kmpl in mixed riding. 15L tank = ~450 km range. |
| Wind protection | Adequate. Could use a taller windscreen for tall riders. |
| Overall | Best ADV in the segment. Period. |
Quick Info for Fellow Riders
- Route: Calicut → Thamarassery Ghat → Gonikoppal → Madikeri → Coorg
- Best time: October to March (post-monsoon, clear skies)
- Total distance: ~500 km round trip
- Fuel stops: Enough pumps on the route. Fill up before the ghats.
- Stay: Plenty of homestays in Madikeri (₹1,500–3,000/night)
- Must-carry: Rain gear, tank bag for quick access, bungee cords
Final Thoughts
Coorg is one of those places that resets you. The combination of winding roads, coffee-scented air, and views that make you pull over every five minutes — it’s hard to beat. And doing it on a motorcycle? That’s the only way to really feel a place.
The Himalayan 450 handled everything I threw at it. From pre-dawn city streets to broken ghat roads to highway cruising — it just works.
Next up on the list: Valparai or Munnar. Stay tuned. ✌️